06

October
2009

Bun Cha Dac Kim

category: restaurants
by Yun, 11 Comments »

Vietnamese food has always been special to me. Influenced by Chinese and French, it is the true “light cuisine” of Asia. Vietnamese delicacies mostly rely on abundant fresh herbs and vegetables, subtle seasonings, rice and noodles. Many dishes rarely have added fats.

I went to Vietnam during last Ramadan holidays. I spent a few days in Hanoi and tried some authentic local Vietnamese foods. I came to know the reputable Dac Kim restaurant from reading the “36 hours in Hanoi” article by New York Times. The restaurant is well known for its fantastic Bun Cha dish. It is one of Vietnamese foods that I haven’t been able to find outside Vietnam. It is a popular traditional North Vietnamese dish, which is basically a combination of grilled pork patties and rice noodles served over a bed of greens, herbs and sliced cucumbers. It often includes chopped-up spring rolls and a small bowl of Nuoc Cham (a well-known Vietnamese dipping sauce typically made from chili, garlic and fish sauce).

Bun Cha Dac Kim is a cramped small three-floor restaurant with steep narrow staircases. Once seated, we were asked for our choices of drink, and soon all the food were quickly brought to us. There was no menu. On the table already are a plate of green herbs, a plate of boiled rice noodles, a bowl of sliced chilies and chopped garlics, a bowl of cut key limes, and a bowl of Nuoc Cham and pickled young papayas. The server brought each of us a bowl of a clear tasty broth filled with succulent grilled pork patties and sliced grilled pork. A side of chopped-up spring rolls filled with crab meats was also served with the bun cha. Not knowing exactly how to start, we asked the server to show us how to eat everything. Some rice noodles were first put in an empty bowl, mixed with couple scoops of pork meats and sauce with some added garlics, chilies, green herbs and pickled papayas. Fresh lime juice was also added to the broth for a more authentic flavor.

The reality of bun cha is startlingly delicious. Leaving Hanoi without tasting bun cha would have been criminal. Bun cha is a must eat! Mixed with the lemony broth, the charcoal-grilled pork patties were so soft and tasted tangy and sweet at the same time. The slices of grilled pork were more tender than anticipated. Some pork patties wrapped in grape leaves were very fine in texture, simply the best. The broth and Nuoc Cham were light, yet flavorsome. The jungle-like pile of veggies are in many different varieties: lettuce, cilantro, mint, celery, basil, etc. My favorite was the delightful spring rolls which was very crispy on the outside and filled with delicious crab meats.

Bun cha was the most stuffing meal I had in Hanoi. It’s a lot of food, it’s very delicious, and it’s cheap. We all went to Bun Cha Dac Kim twice in a few-day stay in Hanoi. Yeah, it was that good!

Bun Cha Dac Kim
1 Hang Manh Street
Hanoi, Vietnam

02

October
2009

Zhen Zhen Porridge

category: restaurants
by Yun, 11 Comments »

This is my first blog after my four-month absence. Hehehe… I’m currently in Singapore for almost a week. It’s time to make a good use of the opportunity for eating Singaporean hawker foods. Yippee!

Early this week, I revisited Maxwell Road Food Center at Singapore for the famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice. When I was there in the food center, I was surprised to see that the queue in front of Zhen Zhen Porridge food stall was very long during lunch hour, making me wonder: “Why are many Singaporeans so crazy about Zhen Zhen Porridge? Can a bowl of porridge be that good?”. My perception on porridge/congee is that it’s merely a breakfast or late supper food made from rice boiled with a large quantity of water for a long time until it becomes a fairly viscous white porridge, which is often served with many condiments, such as green onions, fried shallots and soy sauce. I personally think there is nothing so special about porridge/congee, but the very long queue at Zhen Zhen Porridge stall really caught my attention and enticed my curiosity.

Though quite skeptical at the beginning, A and I finally decided to try their porridge. We spent approximately 45 minutes on the slowly-moving long queue. My order was a $2.50 bowl of chicken congee, whereas A’s order was a $3 large bowl of fish congee. The congee was loaded with tons of spring onions, crispy fried shallots, sliced gingers, chai poh (preserved turnip) and a dash of soy sauce. I also ordered the congee to be mixed with century eggs (or “Pitan” eggs). The porridge just had the right texture, viscosity and consistency and was full of flavors and ingredients in every scoop. The rice was cooked until all rice grains were completely dissolved. The taste of the porridge was way above my expectation, and it flawlessly defined the real meaning of the word “congee”. Also, it was a great value for the money. Both A and I agree that it’s the best porridge we’ve ever eaten.

A’s orders also included a $3 plate of Yu Sheng (slices of raw fish). The raw fish was very fresh and came in a generous portion. Almost similarly to the congee, the Yu Sheng was also garnished with loads of spring onions, sesame seeds, fried shallots, ginger slices, chillis and a bit of sesame oil and soy sauce. Four sides of key limes were also served to add freshness to the fish. The sesame seeds and oil gave enhanced fragrance to the dish. A could not slightly sense any oily taste from the fish. It was so delicious and healthy. Make sure to also include Yu Sheng in your order. Must try!

So, the verdict is that, although the wait at Zhen Zhen Porridge typically takes at least 30 minutes, it is still worth the wait. Considering many Singaporeans claiming in the internet that Zhen Zhen Porridge is the best porridge stall in Singapore, no wonder that their porridge is superbly delicious and their Yu Sheng is equally good and fresh. One minor downside is that the lady owner is quite grumbling. Hehehe…

Zhen Zhen Porridge
Maxwell Road Food Center, Stall 54
Singapore
Opening hours: 5:30 am – 2:30 pm (closed on Tuesday)

02

October
2009

I’m back…

category: sharing
by Yun, 5 Comments »

All… I received several emails asking why I didn’t update my blog for a while. I was in my long vacation back in Indonesia. Due to limited and slow internet access and the fact that I did not bring my own laptop with me, I wasn’t in the mood for writing new blogging entries. I understand that I still owe you some of my stories and pictures of our last trip to Europe and Vietnam. I will post them on my blog once I’m back to US. For now, I include some pictures of Halong Bay, Vietnam below.

12

May
2009

Alinea

category: Favorite,restaurants
by Yun, 12 Comments »

Alinea Restaurant was named as one of the best restaurants in America by Gourmet Magazine in 2006. Grant Achatz, the chef and the owner of Alinea, spent four years at French Laundry until he was promoted to a position as sous chef before he moved to Chicago area and worked as an Executive Chef at Trio Restaurant, Evanston, Chicago. According to the Alinea book, a gentleman who admired Grant Anchatz’s creations (while he was at Trio Restaurant) offered a partnership to Anchatz for opening a new restaurant. And in 2005, Anchatz accepted the offer and opened Alinea Restaurant, located at Lincoln Park neighborhood, Chicago.

In mid 2007, Anchatz was diagnosed with an advanced stage of squamous cell carcinoma of the mouth. This fact indeed made many foodies worry about his ability to taste food. He was continuously receiving an aggressive radiotherapy and chemotherapy during period 2007. And at the end of 2007, he announced that he was cancer free.

bread-alinea

As soon as I knew that A had a plan to go to Chicago in early April, I immediately made a reservation to get a table in Alinea. Initially, I preferred having a nice dinner over there on either Friday or Saturday, but the only reservation left was on Thursday. I was unsure if we could go there on Thursday, since A had to prepare his talk scheduled on Friday. So, I asked A, “Do you mind going to Alinea on Thursday?” He thought about it for a while and then told me, “It should be okay.” Yay! Alinea, here we come. I was so happy and excited afterward.

The restaurant location was hard to be found because there was no apparent sign at the building. We finally found it from the building number after passing by the street for the third time. Once entering the front door, we walked down a hallway highlighted with red and purple light. A couple steps away from the front door, there was a pair of hidden automatic double doors leading to the first-level dining area and the kitchen. The dining area was nicely decorated with minimalist design. The ambiance was relaxing. It is a perfect place for celebrating a special occasion.

wine pairing

The restaurant has three dining areas; one is on the first level and the other two are on the second floor. We were seated on the first level on which the kitchen is also located. We asked the server if we could take pictures of our dining experience, and she said “Absolutely, but with no flash.” With the restaurant’s dimmed lighting, we did our best to capture each food served without a flash.

We took the twelve-course tasting menu with the wine pairing which, I think, is very worthwhile. The server set down two vast squares with some other elements such as a vase, a spoon and a fork. Then the dinner began.

fish roe

First, two kinds of fish roe was served with dill, egg, butter and thyme. For the wine, they gave us two options: very strong ‘linie’ aquavit which was potato based (originally from Norway) or champagne for something lighter. We opted for the first one, and it was indeed very strong. Good for starter. *wink*

cauliflower

Second, five cubes of cauliflower custard were coated with different kinds of flavor like peanut, chocolate and cheese. The meal came with three gels and apple cider soup. The server poured the soup into our plate before we could start eating. Actually, I don’t like cauliflower. But believe me, this one is the best cauliflower I’ve ever eaten. It was paired with a 2004 Austrian white wine from Emmerich Knoll vineyard.

striped bass

Third, wild striped bass was served with chamomile tea and shell fish gel with celery. The wild striped bass was hidden below a yellow clear sheet made from chamomile tea. Interesting, isn’t it? The celery tasted very fresh and crunchy. It was well paired with French Michel Chapoutier white wine.

egg yolk

Fourth, we had an egg yolk covered with soy, wasabi and yuzu. This dish was inspired by the chef’s recent trip to Japan. The outside appearance looks like a little brown cube of soy gel topped with basil leaves and shaved yuzu. The egg yolk should be consumed entirely in one bite. Very well executed by the chef!

lobster

Fifth was lobster with liquidized popcorn, mango, cheese and curry served with a ball of butter. Using the fork, poke the membrane of butter and let the liquid butter flow to the lobster meat. What a taste of incredible edible art! The wine was a 2003 French Chereau-Carre Muscadet from the Loire Valley. Muscadet is a type of a sur lie wine, bottled directly from the lees without a process for filtering the wine. It gives an added freshness and a unique flavor of the wine.

pork belly

Sixth, pork belly with iceberg was served with English cucumber processed with Thai distillation way. The pork belly was laced with lemongrass and fish sauce. The experience of consuming the distilled English cucumber with green chili was beyond my expectation. I could smell the flavor of the green chili, but when I ate it, there was no hot or burning tasting at all. The server indicated that the distillation process was used to capture only the essence of the green chili, creating a complex combination flavor in the cucumber. One bite, and a world of complexity. The wine pairing was Abbazia di Novacella Kerner 2007.

potato-alinea

Seventh, cold potato and black truffle soup were placed in a tiny wax bowl and served with a pin of hot potato, a piece of black truffle and butter. The server told us to eat the potato immediately to savor a distinctly hot and cold element together in our mouth in the same time. Keeping two temperatures separate until right before eating is challenging. First pull the pin until all three ingredients drop to the soup then quickly begin to eat. I could still taste the three distinct flavors of the ingredients, although they’re already blended together in the earthy cold potato soup. It’s fantastic.

wagyu-alinea

Eighth, Wagyu beef was served with A-1 powder and potato. At the beginning of our dinner, our server placed a black vase on our table which we thought that it’s simply used as a decoration. We finally knew the purpose of the vase. The server poured a scent into the black vase already filled with dried ice, thus creating clouds of pleasure and a fragrant smell around our table. The chef found the ingredient of A-1 sauce and turned those into powder. For wine, we had a 2004 Syrah from Barrett Vineyard, Napa Valley. This was the only red wine we had during our tasting menu.

dessert-alinea2

Ninth, Bacon was presented swinging from a wire with butterscotch, apple and thyme. I occasionally read this website, dedicated only for Alinea cooking at home.

Tenth, we had yogurt, pomegranate and cassia served in a small glass with one bite of grape soda wrapped in edible plastic. The server told us to sip the glass and to savor the entire ball in one bite to get a popping sensation in our mouth. The grape soda looked like a candy form similar to what I liked when I was still a little girl.

Eleventh, we had bubble gum, long pepper, hibiscus and crème fraiche in a glass tube. This was my most favorite dessert among all. We’re told to suck everything out to get all the flavors in our mouth.

rhubarb

Twelfth was rhubarb with goat milk and onion, all placed above a pillow puffed with lavender perfumed vapor that deflated under the plate. The lavender aroma associated with the food but in fact, not from the food in front of us but from the inflated perfumed pillow. Obviously a fine idea! It came with a dessert wine, 2008 Elio Perrone from Piedmont, Italy which was my favorite dessert wine.

chocolate

Thirteenth, Varlhona Chocolate was served with prune, olive and pine. The dessert wine was a 2004 Olivares Duice Monastrell from Jumilla, Spain.

ice sorbet

Fourteenth, a bite of ice sorbet consisted of mustard, passion fruit, allspice and soy. Simply a beautiful presentation!

sweet potato

Fifteenth, sweet potato was prepared with bourbon and brown sugar, served with smoldering cinnamon. It was like a mini-deconstruction of candied yam. The cinnamon added the scent intensity, like a vaporous condiment on the table.

Throughout the dinner, the chef constantly surprised me with his brilliant ideas. No doubt that Anchatz is a genius chef. Dining at Alinea is a participatory theater. Anchatz asks us to think. He entertains with his creations and serves pieces that force you to interact with the food and the person serving the meal. You won’t come to Alinea to satisfy your hunger. When you eat at Alinea, you are ready to be removed from your daily life and surrender yourself to an experience that is managed down to the smallest detail. It’s like a theater that you can eat. Every dish is remarkable, creative and complex. The presentation itself is a pleasure of eating a beautiful food made from the finest ingredients. No words can suitably describe my unforgettable dinner at Alinea. You have to come and experience it yourself when you get a chance to visit Chicago.

29

April
2009

Lombok Island

category: travelling
by Yun, 6 Comments »

Lombok, located east to Bali, is a friendly place with its warm and relaxed people. Contrastingly to Bali whose inhabitants are generally Hindu, Lombok is a Muslim predominant island. Despite lacking the cultural splendor of Bali, Lombok is a great getaway for those seeking to escape the crowds. It has uncongested lovely beaches (better than Bali), big surf breaks, excellent diving spots, green rice terraces, handicraft villages and the third largest volcanic mountain. With pristine beaches and tourism not being as developed as Bali, Lombok has become increasingly popular nowadays. A new project for building a new international airport is currently taking place on the southern coast. Constructions of luxury hotels, golf course and marina are also part of the plan to promote Lombok as one of world-class tourist destinations. Completion of the project is expected in 2010.

lombokbeach

Having only a half day to explore Lombok, we decided to rent a car that came with a driver. The first stop from Oberoi was the Senggigi beach, the most developed tourist area in Lombok with various hotels, restaurants and bars. Finished taking pictures in Senggigi, we travelled to Banyumulek, a well-known traditional pottery handicraft village, located 10km south of Mataram. It is the center of pottery making. Even with primitive tools and traditional arts, many tourists have been so impressed by the beauty of Banyumulek’s potteries. Lombok has many handicraft villages, each making its unique kind of craft, basket-making, weaving or pottery.

banyumulek2

Our original plan for lunch was the oxtail soup at Istana Rasa. Unfortunately, it was already sold out. So we went to Rumah Makan Manalagi for their home-made noodle soup. The noodle was served with meatball, vegetable and extra crunchy pork. Although being our second choice, the noodle soup was very delicious.

banyumulek1

Another must-visit place is Tanjung Aan, a hidden treasure located on the southern coast of Lombok. It is remarkable for its wide sand beach and turquoise seawater. The very white sands with big grains resembling white peppercorns stretch along the Kuta beach. Simply beautiful! However, one obvious problem in Tanjung Aan is the nuisance caused by the presence of hawkers that often push tourists to buy something from them. I visited Kuta beach back in 2005 and the location was still under-developed and uncrowded. I believe that once the new airport (very close to Tanjung Aan) begins to operate, Kuta beach will become more popular than Senggigi beach.

senggigi-beach

Sadly, not enough time for us to revisit Tanjung Aan. We had to rush to the airport to catch our return flight. One item in my wish list is still unchecked. To go hiking to Mt. Rinjani will be another reason for us to revisit Lombok in the future.

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